Decorative cosmetic preparations

ABSTRACT

Decorative cosmetic preparations that contain water-soluble β-(1,3) glucans, which have intact β-(1,3) side-chains and are free from repetitive β-(1,6) linkages and a method of producing the same are disclosed.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention belongs to the field of decorative cosmetics and concernspreparations which contain selected polysaccarides of the type β-(1,3)glucans.

PRIOR ART

The formation of wrinkles is induced through the degradation ofdifferent macro molecules such as for example elastin and collagen,which are responsible for the elastases. Many inflammatory skindiseases, such as for example psoriasis or UV erythema, can alsocausatively be linked to an increased concentration of serine proteases,such as e.g. elastase in the upper skin areas [see R. Voegeli et al. inCosm. Toil. 111, 51(1996)].

The formation of wrinkles i the skin is normally not counteracted bymeans of physiological active principles, but by means of cosmeticagents. In addition to pure “anti-ageing products”, a lot of decorativecosmetic products also have been established in the market, which inaddition have a healing and protecting effect. Usually these areliposomes loaded with water or aqueous active agents, which through thefat layer of the skin are reaching the epidermis, where they graduallydissolve and through continuous water release compensate the skinrecesses and regulate the moisture content of the skin. However, thiseffect is no combat against the causes, but only has a so-called “repaireffect”, which only lasts for a short period of time.

The use of specific polysaccharides as agents against the skin ageing isknown from prior art. Thus it has e.g. been suggested in the patent U.S.Pat. No. 5,223,491 to employ a carboxymethylated β-1,3 glucan, which hasbeen extracted from the yeast fungus Saccharomyces cerevisiae, fortopical application. The glucan is, however, insoluble in water and canaccordingly only be formulated with great difficulties. From theteachings in the two papers DE-A1 3744345 (Lomapham) and EP-B1 0175667(Lam) are glucans well suited for stimulation of the activity of themacrophages. The pharmaceutical effect of different glucans is furtherknown from the two European patent applications EP-A1 045338 (Debat) andEP-A1 0561408 (Kaken). Object of the European patent EP-B1 0500718(Donzis) is the use of water insoluble β-(1,3) glucans, which areobtained from the cell walls of yeast, for revitalization of the skin.The complex task task of the present invention was therefore to makeavailable decorative cosmetic preparations, such as e.g. make-ups, lidshades, etc. which in addition to the accentuating colour effectdemanded by the user, should feature a preventative effect against theloss of moisture and the formation of wrinkles, and at the same time anursing and immunestimulating effect.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The object of the invention are decorative cosmetic preparations,containing water soluble β-(1,3) glucans, which are substantially freefrom β-(1,6) linkages. Surprisingly it was found, that decorativecosmetic preparations which according to the invention contain thespecific glucans, in relation to the products according to the state ofthe art show an improved maintenance effect. At the same time thebinding of moisture is improved, the formation of wrinkles iscounteracted and the immune system is stimulated. Decorative cosmeticpreparations in this connection is meant to be tinting face cremes,make-up rouges, face powder, lid shades, kohls, mascaras, eye liners,lipsticks, cover sticks, nail polishes and suchlike.

Water Soluble β-(1,3) Glucans

The term glucans means homopolysaccharides based on glucose. Dependingon sterical linking there is a difference between β-(1,3), β-(1,4) andβ-(1,6) glucans. β-(1,3) Glucans normally show a helical structure,whereas glucans with a (1,4) linkage generally have a linear structure.The β-glucans of the invention have a (1,3) structure, i.e. they aresubstantillay free from undesired (1,6) linkages. Preferably suchβ-(1,3) glucans are used where the side chains exclusively show (1,3)linkages. Especially the agents contain glucans which are obtained onthe basis of yeasts from the family Sacchaomyces, especiallySaccharomyces cerevisiae. Glucans of this type are available intechnical amounts according to known methods. The international patentapplication WO 95/30022 (Biotec-Mackzymal) describes a method forproducing such substances, wherein glucans with β-(1,3) and β-(1,6)linkages are brought in contact with β-(1,6) glucanases in such a way,that practically all β-(1,6) linkages are loosened. Preferably used forthe manufacture of these glucans are glucanases based on Trichodermiaharzianum. As to the manufacture and availability of the glucanscontained in these agents, reference is made to the above citedpublication. The glucans can be contained in the preparations in amountsof 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.2 to 5, and especially 0.5 to 1% by weight,based on the agents.

COMMERCIAL APPLICABILITY

The preparations according to the invention may further contain asadditional auxiliary and additional agents oil bodies, emulsifiers,hyperfatting agents, consistency substances, thickening agents,polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizing agents, biogenicactive substances, deodorants, swelling agents, UV light protectionagents, antioxidants, organic and inorganic colour pigments,hydrotropes, preservatives, solubilizing agents, perfume oils, colouringagents and suchlike. The preparations can be free from water orpractically free from water (e.g. face powder or nail polish); they can,however, contain high amounts of water as a further auxiliary agent(e.g. creme preparations). Preferably the preparations according to theinvention contain

-   (a) 0.1 to 1% by weight of water soluble β-(1,3) glucans, which are    substantially free from β-(1,6) linkages, and-   (b) 99 to 99.9% by weight of auxiliary and additional substances.

As oil bodies use can be made of for example Guerbet alcohols based onfatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters oflinear C₆–C₂₂ fatty acids with linear C₆–C₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters ofbranched C₆–C₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C₆–C₂₂ fatty alcohols, suchas e.g. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate,myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristylerucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetylisostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearylmyristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate,stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate,isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate,isostearyl oleate, isosteayl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleylmyristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyloleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenylpalmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate,behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate,erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate anderucyl erucate. In addition esters of linear C₆–C₂₂ fatty acids withbranched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters ofhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆–C₂₂ fatty alcohols,especially dioctyl malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acidswith polyvalent alcohols (such as e.g. propylene glycol, dimeric diol ortrimeric triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C₆–C₁₀fatty acids, liquid mixtures of mono-/di-/triglycerides based on C₆–C₁₈fatty acids, esters of C₆–C₂₂ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcoholswith aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters ofC₂–C₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxylgroups, plant oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes,linear and branched C₆–C₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates,esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆–C₂₂ alcohols (e.g.Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkylethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms in each alkyl group, ring openingproducts of epoxydated fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oilsand/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as e.g. squalan,squalen or dialkyl cyclohexanes, can be used

As emulsifiers for example nonionic surfactants from at least one of thefollowing groups may be used:

-   (1) Addition products of 2 to 30 moles ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5    moles propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms,    on fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and on alkyl phenols with 8 to    15 C atoms in the alkyl group;-   (2) C_(12/18) fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of    1 to 30 moles ethylene oxide and glycerol;-   (3) glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of    saturated and unsaturated fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and    their ethylene oxide addition products;-   (4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the    alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogues;-   (5) addition products of 15 to 60 moles ethylene oxide on ricinus    oil and/or hardened ricinus oil;-   (6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters, such as e.g.    polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearate    or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate, and also mixtures of compounds    from more of these classes of substances;-   (7) addition products of 2 to 15 moles ethylene oxide on ricinus oil    and/or hardened ricinus oil;-   (8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or    saturated C_(6/22) fatty acids, ricinolic acid and 12-hydroxy    stearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythrite,    dipentaerythrite, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides    (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well    as polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose);-   (9) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphates as well as mono-, di- and/or    tri-PEG alkylphosphates and their salts;-   (10) wool wax alcohols;-   (11) polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers or corresponding    derivatives;-   (12) mixed esters of pentaerythrite, fatty acids, citric acid and    fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and/or mixed esters of    fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols,    preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,-   (13) polyalkylene glycols, as well as-   (14) glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide onfatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkyl phenols, glycerol mono- and diestersas well as sorbitan mono- and -diesters of fatty acids or on ricinus oilare known products which are commercially available. They are mixturesof homologous substances, with average degree of alkoxylationcorresponding to the ratio of the amounts of the substances ethyleneoxide and/or propylen oxide and substrate, with which the additionreaction is carried out. C_(12/18) fatty acid mono- and diesters ofaddition products of ethylene oxide on glycerol are known from DE2024051 PS as revertive fatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

C_(8/18) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their manufacture and theiruse is known from prior art. Their preparation can especially be carriedout by reaction of glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcoholshaving 8 to 18 C atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue bothmonoglycosides, where a cyclic sugar group is glycosidic bond to thefatty alcohol, and oligomeric glycosides with a degree ofoligomerisation until preferably about 8, are suitable. The degree ofoligomerization is then a statistical mean value, based on adistribution of homologous which is usual for such products of technicalquality.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. The termzwitterionic surfactants is intended to mean such surface activecompounds which in their molecule have at least a quaternary ammoniumgroup and at least one carboxylate and one sulphonate group. Especiallysuitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as theN-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coco acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl hydroxyethylimidazoline with in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acylgroups, as well as the coco acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate. Especially preferred is that under the CTFA termcocamidopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative. Also suitableemulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are suchsurface active compounds which in addition to a C_(8/18) alkyl or acylgroup in the molecule at least contain a free amino group and at leastone —COOH or —SO₃H group and which can form inner salts. Examples ofsuitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionicacids, N-alkyl aminobutyric acids, N-alkyl iminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyltaurines,N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylamino aceticacids with in each case about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.Especially preferable ampholytic surfactants are the N-coco alkylaminopropionate, the coco acylamino ethylamino propionate and the C_(12/18)acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic, also quaternaryemulsifiers can be used, of which ester salts of the type of esterquats,preferably methylquaternised di-fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts,are especially preferable.

As hyperfatting agents substances such as for example lanolin andlecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithinderivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acidalkanolamides can be used, whereby the last mentioned at the same timeact as foam stabilisers.

As consistency givers preferably use is made of fatty alcohols orhydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbonatoms and additionally partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fattyacids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosidesand/or fatty acid-N-methyl glucamides with the same chain length and/orpolyglycerol-poly-12-hydroxy stearates is preferred.

Suitable thickening agents are for example types of aerosil (hydrophilicsilicic acids), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar—guar,agar—agar, alginates and methyl celluloses, carboxymethyl celluloses andhydroxyethyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular polyethylene glycolmono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopols® fromGoodrich or Synthalenes® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcoholand polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as for example ethoxylatedfatty acid glycerides, ester of fatty acids with polyols such as forexample pentaerythrite or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxytateswith narrow distribution of homologous or alkyl oligoglucosides as wellas elektrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are for example cationic cellulosederivatives, such as e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which isavailable under the name of Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazol polymers, such as e.g.Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines,quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as for example lauryl dimoniumhydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L/Grünau), quaternized wheatpolypeptides, polyethylene imine, cationic silicone polymers, such ase.g. amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®/Sandoz), copolymers ofacrylic acid with dimethyl diallylammonium chloride (Merquat®550/Chemviron), polyamino polyamides, such as e.g. described in FR2252840 A, as well as their cross-linked water soluble polymers,cationic chitin derivatives such as for example quaternized chitosan,possibly microcrystalline distributed, condensation products ofdihalogen alkyls, such as e.g. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, suchas e.g. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar-gum, such as e.g.Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternisedammonium salt polymers, such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1,Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

As exemplary anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymersthe following can be used: Vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic acidanhydride copolymers and their esters, non-cross-linked and with polyolscross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido propyltrimethyl ammoniumchloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone,vinylpyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers as well as possiblyderivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

Suitable silicon compounds are for example dimethyl polysiloxane,methylphenyl polysiloxane, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fattyacid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glykoside and/or alkylmodified silicone compounds, which at room temperature can be in theliquid as well as in the resin state. Further suitable are simethicones,which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200to 300 dimethyl siloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailedsurvey of suitable volatile silicones can also be found in Todd et al.,Cosm. Toil. 91, 27(1976).

Typical exemplary fats are glycerides, and as waxes natural waxes amongothers, can be used, such as e.g. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanwax, espartogras wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice seed oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, schellac wax, spermaceti,lanolin (wool wax), bücrzel fat, ceresin, ozokerit (terrestrial wax),petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hardwaxes), such as e.g. montanester waxes, sasot waxes, hydrogenated yoyobawaxes as well as synthetic waxes, such as e.g. polyalkylene waxes andpolyethylene glycol waxes.

As stabilizers metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. magnesium,aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

As biogenic active substances should be understood for exampletocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,desoxy ribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol,panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essentialoils, extracts of plants and vitamin complexes.

As swelling agents for aqueous phases montmorillonite, clay mineralsubstances, pemulen, as well as alkylmodified Carbopol types (Goodrich)can be used. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be foundin the survey of R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are e.g organic substances (light protectionfilters) which at room temperature are in liquid or crystalline form,and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and to set freethe received energy in the form of radiation with long wavelength, e.g.in the form of heat. UVB filters can be soluble in oils or in water. Asoil soluble substances the following are mentioned as examples:

-   -   3-Benzyliden camphor, respectively 3-benzylidene norcamphor and        the derivatives thereof, e.g. 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as        described in EP-B1 0693471;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4-(dimethylamino)        benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-(dimethylamino) benzoic acid        2-octyl ester and 4-(dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;    -   esters of cinnamonic acid, preferably 4-methoxy cinnamonic acid        2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxy cinnamonic acid propyl ester,        4-methoxy cinnamonic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenyl        cinnamonic acid 2-ethythexylester (octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid        2-ethylhexylester, salicylic acid 4-isopropyl benzylester,        salicylic acid homomenthylester;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy        benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methyl benzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxy benzmalonic        acid 2-ethylhexyl ester,    -   triazine derivatives, such as e.g.        2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and octyltriazone, as described in EP A1 0818450;    -   propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g.        1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxy -phenyl)-propane-1,3-dion;    -   ketotricyclo(5,2,1,0)-decane derivatives, as described in        EP-B1 0694521. As water soluble substances the following can be        mentioned:    -   2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulphonic acid and the alkali, alkaline        earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium        salts;    -   sulphonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulphonic acid and their salts;    -   sulphonic acid derivatives of 3-benzyliden camphor, such as e.g.        4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulphonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-bornylidene) sulphonic acid and their salts.

As typical UV-A filters especially derivatives of benzoyl methane comein question, such as e.g.1-(4′-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dion,4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), or1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl-propane-1,3-dion. The UV-A and UV-Bfilters can of course also be used in mixtures. In this casecombinations of octocrylene or camphor derivatives with butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane are especially photosensitive.

In addition to the mentioned soluble substances also insoluble lightprotection pigments can be used for this purpose, i.e. fine dispersemetal oxides or salts. Examples of suitable metal oxides are especiallyzinc oxide and titanium dioxide and in addition other oxides of iron,zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium, as well as theirmixtures. As salts silicates (talk), barium sulphate or zinc stearatecan be used. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigmentsfor skin caring and skin protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm,preferably between 5 and 50 nm and especially between 15 and 30 nm. Theycan have a spherical shape, but particles can also be used which have anellipsoidal form or else have a shape which differs from the sphericalshape. In sun protecting agents preferably so-called micro or nanopigments are used. Preferably micronized zinc oxide is used. Furthersuitable UV light protection factors can be found in the survey by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the primary light protection substances also secondarylight protection substances of the antioxidant type find use, whichinterrupt the photochemichal reaction chain, which is initiated when UVradiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples of such are amino acids(e.g. glycine, histidin, tyrosin, tryptophan) and their derivatives,imidazoles (e.g. urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides suchas D,L-camosine, D-camosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g.anserine), carotinoides, carotine (e.g. α-carotin, β-carotin, lycopin)and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, liponicacid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathion,cystein, cystin, cystamine and their glycosyl, n-acetyl, methyl, ethyl,propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl,cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid andtheir derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipides, nucleotides,nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocystein sulfoximines, butionin sulfones, penta-,hexa-, hepta-thionin sufoximine) in very small compatible doses (e.g.pmol to μmol/kg), further (metal) chelating agents (e.g. α-hydroxy fattyacids, palmitic acid, phytinic acid, lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids(e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humin acid, bile acid, bileextracts, bilirubin, bifiverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives,unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid,linolic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubichinonand ubichinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate),tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A andderivatives (vitamin A patmitate) as well as koniferyl benzoate ofbenzoe resin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin,ferula acid, furfuryliden glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxy toluene,butylhydroxy anisol, nordihydro guajak resin acid, nordihydro guajaretacid, trihydroxy butyrophenon, uric acid and their derivatives, mannoseand its derivatives, super oxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives(e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄), selen and its derivatives (e.g. selen-methionin),stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbeneoxide), and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts,esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids)of these mentioned active substances.

For improvement of the flow properties further hydrotropes, such as forexample ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can be used. Polyolswhich in this case can be used preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms andat least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can further contain additionalfunctional groups, especially amino groups, or be modified withnitrogen. Typical examples are:

-   -   Glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols, such as for example ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol as well as polyethylene glycols with an average molecular        weight from 100 to 1000 Daltons;    -   oligoglycerol mixtures of technical quality with a        self-condensation degree of 1.5 to 10, such as e.g. technical        quality diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to        50% by weight;    -   methyol compounds, such as especially trimethylol ethane,        trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythrite and        dipentaerythrite;    -   low alkyl glucosides, especially such with 1 to 8 carbons in the        alkyl residue, such as for example methyl and butyl glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as for example        sorbitol or mannit;    -   sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as for example glucose or        saccharose;    -   amino sugarss, such as for example glucamine;    -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or        2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

As preservatives for example phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution,parabene, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as those mentioned inenclosure 6, parts A and B of the cosmetic regulation, are furtherclasses of substances.

As perfume oils mixtures of natural and synthetic scent substancesshould be mentioned. Natural odour substances are extracts of flowers(lilies, lavendel, roses, jasmin, neroli, ylang—ylang), stems and blades(geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anis, coriander, caraway,juniper), fruit shells (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (macis,angelica, celery, kardamon, costus, iris, calmus), wood (stone pine,sandel, guajac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grass (tarragon, lemongrass,sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, traipsed), resinsand balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoe, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Rawmaterials from animals are also possible, such as for example zibet andcastoreum. Typical synthetic odour compounds are products from types ofesters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Odourcompounds from types of esters are e.g. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethylisobutyrate, p-tert.-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate,dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate,benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate,styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Benzylethyl ether belongsfor example to the ethers, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanaleswith 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxy citronellal, lilial andbourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the ionones, α-isomethyl ionon andmethylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethol, citronellol, eugenol,isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; tothe hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balsams belong. However,mixtures of different odour substances are preferred, which togethergive a pleasant smell. Also etheral oils with low volatility, whichoften are used as aroma components, are suited as perfume oils, e.g.sage oil, chamomile oil, carnation oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamonleaf oil, limeflower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiveri oil, oliban oil,galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably used arebergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethylalcohol, α-hexylcinnamon aldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxane, indol, hedione,sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate,cyclovertal, lavandine oil, muskateller sage oil, β-damascone, geraniumoil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super,Fixolide NP, Evernyl, iraideini gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranylacetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate,alone or in mixtures.

As colouring agents such substances which are suited and approved forcosmetic purposes can be used, such as for example those mentioned inthe publication “Kosmetische Fäcrbemittel” (cosmetic dyes) of the“Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft”, published byVerlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, p. 81–106. These dyes are generally usedin concentrations from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the wholemixture.

The full amount of auxiliary and additional agents can be 95 to 99.9,preferably 99 to 99.5% by weight, based on the agents.

EXAMPLES

The following table contains a number of formulation examples fordifferent decorative cosmetic products where betaglucan is used(Highcareen® GS, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf/FRG). All specifications shouldbe understood as % by weight. The formulations are as follow: (1) tonedday creme; (2) powder creme; (3) pressed face powder, (4) loose facepowder, (5) rouge; (6) lip gloss; (7) nurturing lip stickt; (8)decorative lip stickt; (9) eye liner, (10) mascara; (11) pressed lidshade; (12) lid shades in emulsion form; (13) pearl laquer (14) cremelaquer.

TABLE 1 Example Formulation - Decorative Cosmetics Composition 1 2 3 4 56 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Glyceryl stearate 4.0 1.8 — — — — — — — 6.0 — 5.5— — PEG-20 sorbityl laurate 1.0 0.7 — — — — — Cety alcohol 1.0 — — — — —— Lanolinyl alcohol — 4.0 — — 3.0 45.0 3.0 Lanoleyl alcohol — — — 0.51.5 — — Oleth.-10 — — — — 1.5 — — Stearic acid 2.0 — — — — — — — — 1.0 —1.0 — — Paraffin oil 4.5 7.5 2.0 — 2.5 — — 2.0 — 49.0 3.5 3.0 — —Isopropyl stearate — — 2.0 — — — — — — — 2.0 3.0 — — Isostearylisostearate 12.0 — — — — — — Myristyl lactate 6.0 — — — — — — Cetylstearyl octanoate 5.0 — — — — — — Octyl palmitate 3.0 — — — — — — Oleyloleate — 3.2 — — — — — Dimethyl polysiloxane — — — — 2.5 10.0 — — — — —2.0 — — Stearoxy dimeticone — — — — — — 1.0 Beeswax — — — — — 2.0 — 3.0— 16.0 — 2.5 — — Carnauba wax — — — — — 1.0 3.0 2.5 — 3.0 — — — —Candelilla wax — — — — — — 7.0 2.0 — — — — — — Ozokerite — — — — — 2.0 —2.0 — — — — — — Ricinus oil — — — — — 15.0 82.5 44.5 — 1.5 — — — —Lanolin — — — — — 5.0 10.0 5.0 — — — — — — Betaglucan 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Tocopherol acetate — — — — — —2.0 0.1 — — — — — — PVP/hexadecene copolymer — — 3.0 — — — — Polyvinylpyrrolidone — — — 0.5 — — — D-Phantanol — — — — — — 0.5 Xanthan gum 0.4— — — — — — Magnesium stearate — — 3.0 — — — — Zinc stearate — — — — 4.5— — — — — 2.0 — — — Carboxymethyl cellulose — 0.3 — — — — — — 1.5 — — —— — Polybutylene — — — — — 17.0 — Talcum 4.0 9.0 30.0 65.5 17.5 — — — —— 36.0 — — — Kaolin — — — 5.0 — — — — — — 5.0 — — — Magnesium silicate5.0 0.3 33.0 15.0 22.0 — — — 1.5 — — 2.0 — — Stearalkonium hectorite — —— — — 1.0 10 Titanium dioxide 1.5 4.0 5.0 — 8.0 — — 2.0 — — 5.0 2.0 0.61.0 Iron oxide 0.8 1.1 2.0 0.5 4.0 — — Mica pigments — — 7.0 11.0 35.03.0 — 6.0 — — 10.0 8.0 — — Bismuth oxide — — — 20.0 — 0.2 —Triethanolamine-shellac — 2.0 — — — — — Organic colour pigments 12.0 7.012.0 15.0 8.0 1.2 1.0 Methyl acetate — — — — — 8.0 10.0 Ethyl acetate —— — — — 8.0 18.0 Propyl acetate — — — — — 12.0 16.0 Butyl acetate — — —— — 25.0 23.0 Polyester resin — — — — — 7.5 — Nitrocellulose/isopropanol — — — — — 21.0 19.0 Tolusulfonamide/formaldehyderesin — — — — — 9.0 11.0 Polyacrylate — — — — — — 1.5 Camphor — — — — —1.5 1.5 Dibutyl phthalate — — — — — 5.0 5.0 Propylene glycol 5.0 10.0 —— — — — — 5.0 2.0 — 5.0 — — Triethanolamine — 1.0 — — — — — Perfume oil0.5 0.4 0.5 1.0 0.5 — 0.4 0.4 — — — 0.5 — — Water ad 100 @

1. A decorative cosmetic preparation comprising a water-solubleβ(1–3)-glucan having side chains wherein the side chains exclusivelyshow β-(1,3) linkages as well as additional auxiliary substances andadditives.
 2. The decorative cosmetic preparation of claim 1 whereinsaid water-soluble β-glucan is comprised in said preparations in amountsof 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of agents in saidpreparation.
 3. The decorative cosmetic preparation of claim 1 whereinsaid glucans are obtained from yeasts of the family Saccharomyces. 4.The decorative cosmetic preparations of claim 1 wherein said additionalauxiliaries and additives are members of the groups comprising oilbodies, emulsifiers, hyperfatting agents, consistency substances,thickening agents, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes,stabilizing agents, biogenic active substances, deodorants, swellingagents, UV light protection agents, antioxidants, organic and inorganiccolour pigments, hydrotropes, preservatives, solubilizing agents,perfume oils, colouring agents and other auxiliaries and agents whichare typically part of such preparations.
 5. A method of producingdecorative cosmetic preparations comprising adding a water solubleβ-glucan comprising a main chain of β-(1,3)-linked glucose molecules andside-chains being linked to said main chain by β-(1,6) linkages, andwhere said side chains comprise β-(1,3) linked glucose molecules, toadditional auxiliary substances and additives.
 6. The method accordingto claim 5 wherein said water-soluble β-glucan is comprised in saidpreparations in amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the totalamount of auxiliary substances and additions in said preparations.
 7. Amethod of treating wrinkles in the skin comprising applying to the skina preparation comprising a water soluble β(1–3) glucan having sidechains wherein the side chains exclusively show (1–3) linkages.
 8. Themethod according to claim 7 wherein the preparation contains additionalauxiliary substances and additives.
 9. The method according to claim 7wherein the preparation comprises said water soluble glucan in amountsof 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the weight of the preparation.
 10. Amethod of maintaining moisture in the skin comprising applying to theskin a preparation comprising applying to the skin a water solubleβ(1–3) glucan wherein the side chains exclusively show (1–3) linkages.11. The method according to claim 10 wherein the preparation containsadditional auxiliary substances and additives.
 12. The method accordingto claim 10 wherein the preparation comprises said water soluble glucanin amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the weight of thepreparations.